叠蕴——立体花装饰工艺在服装上的应用
【摘要】盛行已久的中国风，刮过各个行业，也早已刮过大洋彼岸。不管是在服装品牌中、时装发布会上、还是在服装赛事中都能见到中国古代服装元素的运用，我国经过千百年来的演变，不同朝代服装不同特色，为了传承与弘扬中华民俗文化传统和五千年中国的服饰文化，保持民族性，体现时代性，创新中国古代的服饰文化元素。
在服装飞速发展的今天，每一位设计师不懈追求的是设计的创新，灵感的创新，款式、色彩、面料、工艺等。每一个小细节都是设计师们开发与创造的空间。然而，款式设计似乎已经达到巅峰，众多的服装设计者都在寻求新的设计灵感与理念。在prada2009春夏发布会上运用的巨蟒纹、面料压皱的面料处理；chanal2009春夏发布会上，香奈儿一贯的黑白经典，更运用了象牙白纸折叠的立体花饰也足以让真个会场耳目一新。一场场的秀下来，似乎都在宣告装饰工艺将在此盛行。
论文帮写服装装饰工艺具体来说有：刺绣装饰、编结装饰、印染装饰和手绘装饰等。每一个装饰工艺都富含更多的细节分支。如果将每一种工艺都运用于每一件服装，那将是一个多么庞大的空间。本文将沿用编结装饰工艺里的一个小分支，立体花饰谈一些我的认识并以这个元素为出发点进行我的毕业设计。
【关键字】中国风；灵感创新；立体花饰
【ABSTRACT】The long prevailing China-oriented costume has pervaded every industry, even flying over the east coast of Pacific Ocean. The appliance of elements of Chinese ancient costume can be witnessed not only from famous costume brands, costume conferences, but also from its competitions. In the long history of China, different dynasties have distinct costumes. In order to inherit and develop the common culture of our tradition and costume with over five thousand years, this thesis endeavors to innovate the elements of Chinese ancient costume, http://www.51lunwen.org/maintaining the nationality and embodying the modernity.
As the costume industry develops so fast, every designer, who always catches every detail to develop, persists in innovation of design, inspiration, pattern, color, material and craft, etc. However, the pattern designing seems to have reached the summit, so numerous designers are seeking new inspiration and concepts. For example, in the spring and autumn press conference of prada2009, the craft of python texture and crumpled material has been applied, whereas Chanel changes its persistent classical black and white into three-dimensional floriation with folded ivory paper, offering a brand new appearance. It is destined for decoration craft to prevail after its on show again and again.
The craft of costume decoration, every of which contains numerous branches, can be classified as embroidery, knitting, drawing, printing and dyeing, etc. So it will be a huge project if every branch of this craft is applied to every clothes. Adopting a small branch of this craft of knitting——three-dimensional floriation, the author will talk about her some acquisition of it and design her thesis on the basis of it.
【Key words】China-oriented costume;the innovation of inspiration;three-dimensional floriation
1绪论
服装装饰工艺
俗称用特殊技艺加工的有一定艺术性装饰的服装工艺。通常分刺绣装饰工艺、编结装饰工艺、印染装饰工艺、手绘装饰工艺和现代手工艺装饰等。
1.1刺绣装饰服装
参考文献：
[1].服装造型学技术篇3（中屋 典子 三吉满智子 主编）
[2].易学实用服装裁剪（郑广厚 编著）
[3].中国服装设计网、穿针引线服装论坛
[4].PHOTOSHOP CS 创意与设计百例 .华大学出版社
[5].服饰手工艺 .中国轻工业出版社
[6].服装CAD .中国纺织出版社
[7].张志春.中国服饰文化 出 版 社：中国纺织出版社 ISBN书号： 7506419386
[8].华梅.华夏五千年艺术.工艺篇[M].天津：杨柳青画社，1995.
[9].中泽愈. 人体与服装[M] . 袁观洛,译. 北京:中国纺织出版社,2003 :86 - 87 ,31 - 33.
[10].葛俊康.服装200个疑难问题的解答.上海：东华大学出版社，2003.12
[11].Joane E.Blair.FASHION TERMINOLOGY [M]. Prentice-Hall, Inc,Englehttp://www.51lunwen.org/wood Cliffs,New JERSEY. 1992
